Vestnik of Orenburg State Pedagogical University. Electronic Scientific Journal.2017. № 2 (22). P. 71—81
07.00.00 HISTORICAL SCIENCES AND ARCHEOLOGY
UDC 94(47).083
Burlutskaya (Bannikova) Elena Vadimovna, Doctor of Historical Sciences, Associate Professor
Orenburg State Pedagogical University Filatova Svetlana Vladimirovna, Candidate of Historical Sciences, Associate Professor
Penza State Tehnological University
CHARACTERISTICS OF PROVINCIAL MERCHANT COSTUME IN THE 19th CENTURY AND EARLY 20th CENTURY (BASED ON MATERIAL OF THE SOUTH URALS AND THE MIDDLE VOLGA REGION)
Abstract
The article describes styles and trends of provincial merchant clothes in the 19th century and early 20th century according to information from various sources. The authors focus on the meaning of various elements of the traditional merchant costume in their role as the components of non-verbal communication between townspeople. With the analysis of the most common variants of the merchant’s appearance the authors attempt to explain some features of the merchant image and how specifically was this estate perceived by other strata of provincial Russian society.
1. Alektorov A. Istoriya Orenburgskoi gubernii. 2-e izd. [History of the Orenburg province. 2 nd ed.]. Orenburg, Tip. B. Breslina Publ., 1883. (In Russian)
2. Arsent’ev V. M. Manukhiny: opyt realizatsii predprinimatel’skoi funktsii v usloviyakh rossiiskoi provintsii XIX v. [The Manukhins: the experience of implementing entrepreneurial functions in the Russian provinces of the XIX century]. Ekonomicheskaya istoriya, 2014, no. 4 (27), pp. 32—43. (In Russian)
3. Bannikova E. V. «Kupecheskii stil’» (predstavleniya o mode v srede ural’skogo kupechestva pervoi poloviny XIX v.) [“Merchant style” (ideas of fashion among the Urals merchants of the first half of the XIX century]. Vestnik Rossiiskogo universiteta druzhby narodov. Seriya: Istoriya Rossii, 2008, no. 4 (14), pp. 105—117. (In Russian)
4. Bannikova E. V. Atributy uspeshnosti v kupecheskoi srede doreformennoi Rossii [Attributes of success in the merchant environment of pre-reform Russia]. Simvolicheskoe i arkhetipicheskoe v kul’ture i sotsial’nykh otnosheniyakh : materialy III Mezhdunar. nauch.-prakt. konf. 5—6 marta 2013 g. [Symbolic and archetypal in culture and social relations: materials of the III Intern. Scientific-practical conf., 5—6 March 2013]. Praga, Vědecko vydavatelské centrum “Sociosféra-CZ” Publ., 2013, pp. 121—126. (In Russian)
5. Bazarnye tipy [Bazaar types]. Penzenskie gubernskie vedomosti, 1908, no. 199. (In Russian)
6. Bulgarin F. Ocherki russkikh nravov. Litsevaya storona i iznanka roda chelovecheskogo [Essays on Russian customs. The face and underside of the human race]. St. Petersburg, Tip. E. Pratsa Publ., 1843. 98 p. (In Russian)
7. Bystrenin V. P. «Ukhodyashchee» (Siluety) [“The leaving” (Silhouettes)]. Golos minuvshego, 1922, no. 1, pp. 31—50. (In Russian)
8. Vistengof P. Ocherki moskovskoi zhizni [Essays on Moscow Life]. Moscow, Tip. S. Selivanovskogo Publ., 1842. 210 p. (In Russian)
9. Volobueva T. O. Russkii kupecheskii kostyum vtoroi poloviny XIX — nachala XX veka [Russian Merchant Costume of the Second Half of the 19th — Early 20th Century]. Prepodavanie istorii v shkole, 2009, no. 10, pp. 65—69. (In Russian)
10. Gosudarstvennyi arkhiv Ul’yanovskoi oblasti [State Archives of the Ulyanovsk Region]. F. R-4061. Op. 1. D. 313.
11. Gosudarstvennyi arkhiv Penzenskoi oblasti [State Archives of the Penza Region]. F. 154. Op. 1. D. 31.
12. Elenskii O. Mysli i vospominaniya polyaka [Thoughts and memories of a Pole]. Russkaya starina, 1906, vol. 127, no. 9, pp. 670—714. (In Russian)
13. Ivanisov M. I. Penza. Poeticheskoe opisanie goroda v 60—70-e gg. XIX veka i satiricheskie ocherki kupecheskogo byta (zhizn’ malen’koi velikorusskoi provintsii) [Penza. Poetic description of the city in the 60—70s. XIX century and satirical essays of merchant life (the life of a small Great Russian province)]. Kiev, Tip. I. I. Vrublevskago i T. V. Ozerova, L’vovskaya 10 Publ., 1908. (Reprint. izd. Penza, 1997. 96 p.) (In Russian)
14. Kirsanova R. M. Kostyum v russkoi khudozhestvennoi kul’ture XVIII — pervoi poloviny XX v. Opyt entsiklopedii [Costume in the Russian art culture of the XVIII — first half of the XX century. Encyclopedia Experience]. Moscow, Bol’shaya Rossiiskaya entsiklopediya Publ., 1995. 383 p. (In Russian)
15. Konyukhov I. S. Kuznetskaya letopis’ [Kuznetsk Chronicle]. Novokuznetsk, Kuznetskaya krepost’ Publ., 1995. 78 p. (In Russian)
16. Korsh E. Byt kupechestva i meshchanstva [Life of merchants and philistinism]. Gosudarstvennyi istoricheskii muzei. Iz epokhi krepostnogo khozyaistva XVIII i XIX vv. [State Historical Museum. From the era of serfdom XVIII and XIX centuries]. Moscow, GIM Publ., 1926, pp. 23—34. (In Russian)
17. Koshko A. F. Gnusnoe prestuplenie [A heinous crime]. Ocherki ugolovnogo mira tsarskoi Rossii [Essays of the criminal world of tsarist Russia]. Moscow, Direkt-Media Publ., 2014, vol. 2, pp. 50—79. (In Russian)
18. Kuznetsov A. P. Moya rodoslovnaya. Neokonchennye vospominaniya [My genealogy. Unfinished memories]. Zemstvo: Arkhiv provintsial’noi istorii Rossii. Penza, 1995, no. 3, pp. 67—163. (In Russian)
19. Likhachev Yu. F. «…Ispoved’ moei dushi». Vospominaniya o prozhitom i perezhitom obyknovennogo cheloveka. Iz fonda kollektsii Gosudarstvennogo arkhiva Penzenskoi oblasti [“…Confession of my soul.” Memories of an experienced person. From the Collection of the State Archives of the Penza Region]. Zemstvo: Arkhiv provintsial’noi istorii Rossii. Penza, 1995, no. 4, pp. 80—191. (In Russian)
20. Medvedev P. M. Vospominaniya [Memoirs]. Penzenskii krai v memuarakh, khudozhestvennoi literature i issledovaniyakh: antologiya [Penza region in memoirs, fiction and research: anthology]. Moscow, Novye resheniya Publ., 2014, vol. 3, pp. 189—195. (In Russian)
21. Orlov N. A. Penza v novom potoke zhizni. 1968 g. [Penza in a new stream of life. 1968]. Tyustin A. V. Vo blago Otechestva: iz istorii predprinimatel’stva Penzenskoi gubernii [For the benefit of the Fatherland: from the history of entrepreneurship of the Penza province]. Moscow, Darin Publ., 2004, pp. 440—443. (In Russian)
22. Popov N. S. Khozyaistvennoe opisanie Permskoi gubernii soobrazno nachertaniyu S.-Peterburgskogo Vol’nogo ekonomicheskogo obshchestva, sochinennoe v 1802 i 1803 godu v Permi: v 2 ch. [Economic description of the Perm province in accordance with the inscription of the St. Petersburg Free Economic Society, compiled in 1802 and 1803 in Perm: in 2 parts] Perm’, Tip. gubernskogo pravleniya Publ., 1804. Part 1. 399 p.; Part 2. 400 p. (In Russian)
23. Prostota [Simplicity]. Simfoniya po tvoreniyam prepodobnogo Amvrosiya, startsa Optinskogo [Symphony on the creations of the Monk Ambrose, the elder of Optina]. Moscow, DAR Publ., 2007, pp. 236—237. (In Russian)
24. Pylyaev M. I. Staryi Peterburg. Rasskazy iz byloi zhizni stolitsy [Old Petersburg. Stories from the former life of the capital]. St. Petersburg, Tip. A. S. Suvorina Publ., 1889. 429 p. (In Russian)
25. Remizov A. M. Iveren’ (fragmenty) [Iveren (fragments)]. Penzenskii krai v memuarakh, khudozhestvennoi literature i issledovaniyakh : antologiya [Penza region in memoirs, fiction and studies: anthology]. Moscow, Novye resheniya Publ., 2016. Vol. 6, pp. 151—187. (In Russian)
26. Russkii kostyum 1750—1917: materialy dlya stsenicheskikh postanovok russkoi dramaturgii ot Fonvizina do Gor’kogo: v 5 vyp. [Russian costume of 1750—1917: materials for scenic productions of Russian dramaturgy from Fonvizin to Gorky: in 5 is.]. Moscow, Vseros. teatral’noe obshchestvo Publ., 1960—1972. (In Russian)
27. Salov I. A. Umchavshiesya gody [Dying years]. Penzenskii krai v memuarakh, khudozhestvennoi literature i issledovaniyakh: antologiya [Penza region in memoirs, fiction and studies: anthology]. Moscow, Novye resheniya Publ., 2014. Vol. 1, pp. 151—178. (In Russian)
28. Semenov V. B. «Sukonnoi fabriki dymy…» [“Cloth factory smoke…”]. Kraevedenie. Penza, 1999, no. 2 (007), pp. 56—74. (In Russian)
29. Stolpyanskii P. N. Gorod Orenburg. Materialy k istorii i topografii goroda [Orenburg. Materials for the history and topography of the city]. Orenburg, Orenburgskaya gub. tipografiya Publ., 1908. 399 p. (In Russian)
30. Sudakova O. N. Kul’tura povsednevnosti v kupecheskom zhenskom kostyume [Culture of everyday life in a merchant women’s costume]. Vestnik Sankt-Peterburgskogo gosudarstvennogo universiteta tekhnologii i dizaina. Ser. 2: Iskusstvovedenie. Filologicheskie nauki, 2014, no. 4, pp. 3—9. (In Russian)
31. Suichimez A. A. Kostyum kak komponent sotsiokul’turnogo portreta v p’ese A. N. Ostrovskogo «Svoi lyudi — sochtemsya!» [The costume as a component of the socio-cultural portrait in the play by A. N. Ostrovsky “It’s a Family Affair — We’ll Settle It Ourselves”]. Vіsnik Zhitomirs’kogo derzhavnogo unіversitetu іmenі Іvana Franka, 2014, no. 2 (74), pp. 281—284. (In Russian)
32. Tolstoi L. N. Pis’mo № 115 [Letter No. 115]. Polnoe sobranie sochinenii [Complete works]. Moscow, Khudozhestvennaya literatura Publ., 1938. Vol. 83. Pis’ma k S. A. Tolstoi. 1862—1886. P. 227—228. (In Russian)
33. Ushakov A. S. Iz kupecheskogo byta: Povesti i ocherki [From the merchant life: Tales and essays]. Moscow, A. Cherenin i Ko Publ., 1862. 255 p. (In Russian)
34. Shapiro B. L. Gorodskoi obraz zhizni i kul’tura povsednevnoi odezhdy: istoricheskie osobennosti vtoroi poloviny XIX — nachala XX v. [Urban lifestyle and culture of everyday clothing: historical features of the second half of the XIX — early XX century]. Vestnik Ekaterininskogo instituta, 2011, no. 4, pp. 149—155. (In Russian)